Spanish - Part 2

I would like to think that my spanish is improving as I stay here longer but the switch from Chile to Argentina has been rough! The people in BA speak very quickly, and use so much slang. Also, instead of Tu, they use the Vos. Very hard to get used to! Meanwhile, I notice that argentians often seem to misunderstand each other and constantly ask for a repeat of previous phrase. Which makes me feel better. People compliment my spanish, which makes me feel good because I often feel so inarticulate. I think they are happy that I try. I look forward to returning to Chile where it is easier for me to communicate. Ciao!

BA - Where to start?

I am having a fantastic time in Buenos Aires. I cannot imagine being happier. It is hot and muggy and the streets were made for walking. I am walking many miles each day and loving all the sights. I stop for cafe con leche or a coke. And sit and watch people. I see a lot of tourists and probably regular old argentinians. The people of Argentina come from all over the world (but many european origins) so it isn´t that different from home. I don´t often see people of african origins, which for me is unusual. There are more people of african heritage here than in Chile but to me it is strange to not see more black people. The buildings here are incredible. Huge and regal and detailed. I can stare at an old government building for hours because it is so rich in architectural detail. People are mostly friendly. I have had a few snotty waiters but I usually wear them down with my smile and little quips. This is an amazing City. Love being here.

Buenos Aires

I survived the long, overnight bus ride which featured 5 brazilian frat boys, a bingo tournament, lots of rain, two stupid movies, and thankfully a fair amount of sleep. The seats do recline all the way down and I slept okay. And now, I am here in amazing, beautiful, historic Buenos Aires! Truly I had forgotten all the magnificent architecture, the plazas, the cafes, everything. It is so, so pretty. And I am excited to take the subway and see those old stations. Also, the weather is lovely here. Yay! After the cold rain in Mendoza, the lovely sun is a welcome friend.

Over the river and through the woods

I took the bus yesterday from Santiago to Mendoza. So, a trip through the Andes. The views are really spectacular, especially from the upper deck of the bus. I had remembered these kinds of buses being very luxurious, sadly my bus was kind of dirty and not so nice. But the seat did recline quite a bit and I got a window seat. The wait at the Chilean/Argentinian border is really long. Would you believe 3 hours? So, people get out of the bus and walk around and buy cookies. I snoozed because my bus seat was in the sun and it was really warm and comfy. When I arrived in Mendoza, I was immediately reminded of how much more organized Chile is than Argentina. It took forever to find a money change place and the guy gave me a bunch of torn up bills. I had to really pounce on him to give me clean money. My hotel is very nice. But now I have a free day and it is raining. Hard. I am not so intrepid as to walk all over a new place in the rain. I think I will end up at a museum. We´ll see! Tonight I leave for Buenos Aires.

Living the vida loca

I studied spanish the entire time I was in college. I have taken various trips to Latin American and lived in Chile in 1990. Really, why isn´t my spanish any better? I don´t think I have an aptitude for language. I can memorize, pick up simple exchanges, and communicate a bit. But to really converse and comprehend? Hard work. But I still try. I am trying to read Pablo Neruda´s Memoirs in spanish. I have been heavily warned by many, including Pedro not to try this. Why? Because Neruda has a vocabulary of a million plus words and twists them in many shapes
and directions. But that is what I love about it. I have read the book twice in english and so I more or less know the story. And because in so many instances he is offering snapshots, it is fun to try and take apart his prose. It is one of my favorite books. And a pleasure to read one more time.

Fifi el viejo

I thought of my friend Steve quite a bit while I was in Catapilco because he would love to have a property like this. It is exactly what he might develop. The house itself is simple and elegant while the landscape is opulent and varied. On all sides of the house there are gardens, each with a distinct look. I also know that Steve likes the desert. Jorge has planted so many agaves, cactus, echeverria and many chilean native plants that I don´t know. They have a simple pool which is nice to swim in a bit and also to sit around. If you look at the house from a distance, it blends beautifully into the landscape. There are great opportunities to walk around the property, and around the terrain. The neighbors have a small vineyard, and the hills are quite lovely. The whole time I was there, Jorge worked. He is always working in the garden, rearranging, improving. Yes, JUST LIKE STEVE! And finally, what would Steve like the most about this place? It is a perfect place to relax with your family.

Catapilco

Today we drove to Catapilco, where Jorge and Pedro have built a country house. They bought the property with some friends and everyone is developing a house at their own pace. Of course Jorge and Pedro built theirs first. It is completely fabulous. The house is simple and can be completely open or completely closed. And of course it is filled with beautiful things from all over the world. It reminds me a bit of where Michael Jackson built "Neverland." It is about 15 minutes from the ocean and surrounded by hills and mountains. Really beautiful. So, to round out the picture, we are about an hour and a half from Santiago. I would not have said that I found Santiago stressful and noisy but now that I am here, WOW. So quiet! So pretty! There are these kids that play basketball in the street in the evening outside of my window in Santiago and I am realizing that I do not miss them at all now that I am in the country. While I write, Jorge and Pedro are making me dinner. What´s not to like?